August 31, 2009
read your blog for a few years now and enjoyed it a bunch. I was born
and raised in NH, but recently moved out to Oregon to serve as an Americorps
volunteers, anyways, I have been back on vacation, and took a few pictures
during the Danny swell that I thought I'd send to you. This is just
point and shoot stuff... but I had a fun time shooting in between being
in the water. Hopefully I'll get an SLR someday! Anyways, feel free
to use if you'd like, and if I see you around, I'll introduce myself!
Keep up the good work!
you for the kind words. You are one of many thousands of
New England transplants who read my weekly blog.
Please send your Danny pics at 800 pixels wide.
Looking forward to what you have.
Subject: Between the Lines on My Local Lineup Television
My Local Lineup, a quality local surfing related television show is
featuring a 30 minute show about BTL.
The first segment played tonight at 7:00 on channel 16 in San Diego.
Sorry I didn't notify earlier but I wasn't sure when it would play.
It will replay Tuesday night through Friday night at midnight on San
Diego channel 16 if you might care to record it. For those who don't
live in San Diego, the interview is also online at the following link.
Also, please accept my apologies for misquoting that "10 % of those
who died in Vietnam were surfers". I meant to say that 10% of those
who died were Californians.
I wonder how many surfers did die in Nam? Thanks Ty for keeping us up
to date on the movie.
You seem to have an event up there nearly every week. Kinda
jealous. Great water shots with the new cam!
no rest for the weary. That camera is so much fun. I can't wait for
real clean hollow surf.
August 31, 2009
The 2nd Wounded Warrior is in the books. I wanted to thank everyone
for their hard work. We had double the participants and the worst injury
was a ripped up toenail; not bad.
The water patrol was going non-stop and the land crew kept things running
smoothly. Everybody and their dog got waves and left stoked.
Big thanks to Ralph Fatello, who uses his substantial goodwill with
the Town of Hampton and NH State Parks to make sure things happen for
us. He has a great wrap-up on his blog with lots of pictures.
We want to make this better every year, so if you have any ideas on
how to make it run more smoothly, please let me know.
After a false start last year, we are going to try to send a crew up
for the winter event. Stay tuned.
Thanks again and see you in the water.
you Michael and your wife Linda. This would not ahppen without you.
So a big salute to you my friend.
August 31, 2009
Subject: RE: BLATANT DROP IN 8-30-09
Incredible idiot yakkers.
Well I think we can all agree, there's no shortage
of idiots out in the water.
And they ride almost anything. But the Yakkers who are suddenlly imposing
on some of the upper level breaks, should be more aware of their surroundings.
Inspirational. You do so much good.
Thanks Jim. .
I was watching NECN and the story came on and I said to myself, "Ralph
is probably involved with this" , and then you came up on the screen.
Anyway, I will be 40 in November. I'm a single father of 3, not much
time to pursue good waves but I still get out there when it's firing,
like last weekend!
Your column is and has been a point of light for me every week for years.
I've been able to keep an eye on things up there and live a little vicariously
through your great stories and photos, as I have my hands full these
I'm sorry for the loss of your father. Your story that week inspired
me to make more time for my father and have more gratitude and respect
for him. We now do things together all the time and he is an amazing
Thanks again for the kind words Jon. Keep up
the good work on being a good dad to your kids. Surfing will always
be there. And trust me, there's no better times than sharing the ocean
with your children.
August 31, 2009
I love the water shots...nothing beats that perspective!!! It must be
tough shooting from the water, but fun.
The Wounded Warriors Hit the Beach is GREAT; I would love to help volunteer
for this next year!!
...yes I love that new camera. It's so cool.
And light. It's not that hard...shooting from the water. I mean I'm
no Brian Nevins but I have a handle on water shots.
The WW was so good. You can help next year if you want. So, where the
are your BILL and DANNY pics? Did you just surf? Hu? You gotta shoot
surf, or surf and shoot. But you gotta do both.
August 30, 2009
I saw you on NECN this morning regarding your work with disabled veterans.
I just have to tell you that your life and perspective has been a huge
inspiration to me as a person and father. I read your page on Cropper's
site every week. I am also proud to have my music in your surf videos.
I know I haven't seen or spoke with you in years, but wanted you to
know that you have had a profound and positive influence on me over
the last 15 years. Take care.
Thanks for the kind words Jon. Wow. I had no
idea you felt that way.
But I'm glad you got something out of my weekly column and my life.
And I'm glad I got to use your music in my movies.
never saw the NECN piece. All they had was Kennedy stuff.'
August 29, 2009
Good to see you at the paddle out even though we did not get a chance
to catch up. Thanks for sharing your words. it was.. amazing.... to
say the least.. I still have goose bumps.
know I was thinking the same thing. I saw you and never said a word
It was pretty special for sure. Same with yesterday. We hosted the Wounded
Warriors. Back to back emotional weeks. It's never ending.
all is well with you and your family. Still just the one little Girl
right? She must be close to 3 years old by now. One of these days you'll
have to bring her to Surf Family Robinson. She'd love it.
shooting and surfing!
August 29, 2009
Good for you brotha, Once again I must say Great Job for your work on
Wounded Warriors and all that you do for all of us
Vini. It was almost like an extention of what we did last year. Michael
Taylor and his wife Linda should be commended for really putting this
together. They are the true unsung heroes.
Such a great event today. You guys did such a great job with everything.
Major smiles on all the first time surfers faces. Got to say too - those
were some decent sized waves for a first lesson/ride....especially for
the guys/girls riding the waves on their stomachs (making them feel
bigger). They seemed unfazed though and just had a blast.
Thank you. They were having fun out there that's for sure. The basic
concept of surfing is still true. Having fun. Surfing Heals All Wounds.
Thanks for letting me be a part of the wounded warriors event
that felt better then any wave i have ever caught
I hear you brother. Volunteering is a good thing and can be so rewarding.
You helped make a difference in those veteran's lives today.
Thank you for helping out.
FYI - Drop in pictures sparked some interesting conversations (Kayak
it should. Yakkers need to know the basic rule of NOT dropping in and
SHARING. I read some of the comments on the Yak messagae boards. It's
clear that some of you know the proper Ettiquette while some do not.
The simple fact remains, that Yakkers can catch waves easier. Therefore
your wave count automatically goes up. So you need to realize that as
you catch wave after wave. On the Dropping in Rule. If someone is behind
you and closer to the breaking part of the wave- THEY HAVE Posession.
If you choose to paddle and catch that same wave, you are in violation.
And unfortunately, subject to all kinds of abuse. Some of which can
be very hurtful...To quote the infamous JERKY BOYS...OPEN YOUR EARS
(EYES) JACKASS! Oh, and have fun.
August 27, 2009
Just kidding about the photoshop - but it is odd that the kayak loses
color in 3 frames.
avoid surfers when I paddle. It's not that I don't like them; it's that
they're much more maneuverable than me and if we end up on the same
wave I'm going to struggle to get out of their way. Plus, I can happily
catch and play on junk waves that are of no interest to boarders.
sequence is generating some discussion (and education about surf etiquette)
on some kayak message boards - good job getting those pics up.
great! Now I have Yakkers on the warpath. Can't we all jest git along?
As in Yakkers moving along and Yak somewhere else? The ocean is soooo
big. No need to clog the surf line-ups. But if you guys insist on Yakking
where we're surfing...it's like crosssing the street. Look both ways
before you cross.
Subject: re: BILL BLATANT DROP IN / BLATANT DROP-IN Aug23-09 9
Why does the kayak change color? In frames #9,10,11 - it's white.
me think "photoshop" - but otherwise looks very convincing.
kyaker who apologizes for any kayaker who's ever done anything like
this to you
Why does the kayak change colors? Are you kidding
me? Photoshop? Huh? I don't have time from week to week, to be photo
shopping anything, let alone a Blatant Drop In Sequence.
have video footage of the other Kayaker with a Red Kayak, who was out
that same afternoon, Blatantly dropping in on my son forcing him to
straighten out into the pack. Not good. Not funny, and certainly not
safe. For the record Jim, I have Kayaker friends who are very good at
what they do, and they would NEVER ever paddle out into a line-up that
was that clogged with surfers. They would rather be by themselves, catching
every wave they wanted, with no surfers anywhere near them.
what those two "Sea Clowns" should of done. My thinking is,
they were looking for their 15 minutes of fame...and unfortunately...they
got it. Ralph's Pic Of The Week BLATANT DROP-IN.
How are you? I hope this finds you well and rested. I always enjoy your
pictures and words - the words and pictures that you have shared about
Molly's Day are just awesome! Thank you for posting the photos of your
own and others so that we can all enjoy, remember and see the day from
different angles/perspectives! I was out there on the water and man...
it was a powerful experience- the slight life of the swell... the feelings
of love in the air! I hope that Friday brings a nice swell for your
event - I have a friend that may want to join in on that! Take care
and again... thank you! elk (aka Erin Keenan)
Thank you Erin. I'm glad you got something positive out of that. There
is love and support in this community. Of that I am certain. We are
August 26, 2009
did you See!!! Nice shots
I was Jonesn for some
Good to see Doc and Duffy on some great ones
So did Lenny pound the Kayaker???
the Blog and Congrats on always organizing the paddle outs and community
The boys all got their share. And let's just say, that Yakker got his
share of all the pent up aggression from the local boys.
me some Hanalei Bay pics will ya? Say hi to the family.
Hope you've been enjoying the swell brought on by hurricane Bill. I've
seen some great images on surfline already, can't wait to see what you
shot/have received! We've had our own swell pushing through this week.
I've got 2 days worth of shots so far, and hopefully the swell holds
through Thursday, that way I can finally shoot the Analog surf team
action! I'll send you a selection of the weeks images on Friday.
The whole East Coast was lit up with BILL. We scored some great surf
great images. Hope this next Orange County Swell gets good.
shooting and keep surfing!
August 25th, 2009
EXACT same thing happened to me on saturday with a kayaker.
what is up with that!?
thanks for posting.
makes me feel a little better :)
It was only a matter of time before this would happen. Truth is some
of them damn Yakkers don't know the unwritten rules of surfing. Now
they know...or at least are beginning to know. I fear all they have
done is "awaken a sleeping giant". Hold onto your seats...things
might get a little bumpy before
it gets better.
I enjoyed the shots from Bill. I hit a couple of spots you and I use
to surf down here and got some great waves all of similar size. Matt
returned from California Sat at 2pm and was in the water up your way
at 4pm.He got some good surf Saturday and went to RI Sunday and said
the best way to describe it was epic. Looks like another one coming
for this Saturday.
Tis the season...let's hope it continues.
was thinking of you with all this Bill stuff. Did you guys score the
goods? Saw some pics that looked real good.
We are having the best summer in at least 10 years and Fall (prime time)
is right around the corner.
All is good.
We scored for 4 days. BILL was good. In fact...All is good here Rock.
Sad but good. Send me some Big Surf NW Cal pics.
August 24, 2009
Hey Ralph, Thank you, again, for Saturday. The emotion is just now beginning
to settle, and I wanted to hit you with a few words and I would appreciate
it if you could include them on your blog this week. There is the Flatbread
Pizza event tomorrow night at in Portland and tons of new pics and info
on Molly's webiste. I love you, Vince. Hugs! Buck
Much love and many thanks to all of you that participated in Molly's
paddle on Saturday morning. Molly's Bash and paddle-out was the most
spiritual event that I have ever experienced, and I there will not be
a day that passes that I won't remember that day for the rest of my
life. Meighan and I are beyond being grateful to all of you that showed
up in order to help us pay tribute to our little girl. It was an amazing
day - simply amazing.
am sure that all of you scored some waves over the past several days.
I got some bombs yesterday, took a good thrashing on a few, and it was
good to experience the power of the ocean as it's been a long time since
I was humbled by the intensity of our waves. This morning I scored a
session at my spot, and while I was driving home the emotion of Molly's
Bash on Saturday began to settle. I thought of Molly, and the hundreds
of people that made the time to help us celebrate her life, and I was
instantly humbled by the power of this community and I began to cry.
I wasn't crying because Molly is no longer alive - I was crying because
I feel so blessed that Meg and I have received so much love and support
from this community. Our little community is much more powerful than
the set waves that we saw on Sunday. I am fortunate to be able to live
close to the ocean, that Meg and I can raise our son at the beach, and
I can promise you that each day I will continue to be humbled by the
love that this community has not only shown Molly but to Meighan, Kieran,
and I as well. Thank you. Thank you for sharing your tears and hugs.
Thank you for the overwhelming support. Molly's legacy will continue
to live just as our love for this wonderful community will continue
ya'll in the water!
I think I can speak for many of us when I say, that we are truly humbled
by your love and spirit and positive attitude and your undying love
for not only Molly but Meg and Kieran. And that we will never forget
Molly and we will be with you in helping keep her memory alive and help
with the fundraisers in her name. She is still with us. And I know you
all believe that. And until we all meet again in Molly's world, we will
remember her in this world.
We all Love you guys. Surfing Heals All Wounds.
Man I have to tell you, you inspire me man
I wanted you have to have this pic of you and your daughters board.
You set up that event man, you were the first on the beach man,
you're a vet right? your actions inspired me.
you Tim. But I was not alone in this. There were many who made this
happen. I was just a part of it.
August 22, 2009
As a parent I wanted to thank you for all your effort and help and professional
skills with making a great event this morning. It is still beyond my
ability to even imagine how the family is able to process the loss of
their daughter. To see and hear Bucks strength and ability to thank
the community for their support made me realize that once again I had
to reach out to you and thank you again for all you do for all of us.
It is because of this that not only will I ask in my prayers for God
to give Buck and his family strength today, but to also watch and protect
you and your family. Thank you again
Thank you Vini...I think Nevins hit the nail on the head with his words
Today was very difficult. It's been a month since the Rowlee's lost
their 5 year old daughter to cancer and I don't think it settled in
until this morning. I was next to Buck as he said goodbye to Molly,
and I'm sure like all of us that were there an overwhelming feeling
surged out of nowhere. It was the first time I've cried in a long time.
Part of it was trying to understand how an amazing little girl was taken
from us so soon, part the pain of watching a friend endure the worst
thing imaginable but mostly was a feeling of community I have never
understood until today. I have, and I'm sure we all have pulled the
I'm local card out one to many times, but everytime a bit hollower than
last... until this morning. This morning I felt local for the first
time since being born here 30 years ago. 400 atleast, surrounding the
Rowlees in the water or on the beach pulsing a wave of love and energy
to try and ease the pain. I felt it, and it was overwhelming. I
think Molly was the glue that finally brought us ALL together. For that...
I owe you one Molly.
It's what we have together that makes us all so wealthy.
Hurricane Bill is pushing us some waves, I think we have Molly to thank
for that as she watches over all of us. Thank You to the Rowlees for
letting us into her and their life, we are the better people because
of it. It's all in perspective now, I understand how much brighter today
You were in Vietnam. I had returned and was stationed at Ft. Dix, New
Jersey. I was less than 150 miles from Woodstock!! I had even thought
about going and had I gone I would have still been stuck in the mud
and still in the Army from going AWOL.
Now I want you to go down to the wall and tie yourself off and I want
to see some big surf pictures like Jim Cantori (Weather Channel) does
when a hurricane slams ashore.
Enjoyed the Pic. of Tom and I---Thanks
Have a good day
There hasn't been a Woodstock reunion that does not bring back those
memories. I actually had friends who went to Woodstock. I remember thinking..."I'll
probably hear all about it". Ha!
Waiting For BILL...
August 20th, 2009
was so happy to finally hit the water! I had to stare at the ocean which
was as flat as glass for my entire trip, but what a way to cap it off
on the last day. My first experience at The Wall was definitely memorable.
Those are some great pictures of my surf lesson. You caught a couple
of my nose dives and some of my nice rides perfectly. Tell Max thanks
for the tips and thank you for documenting my adventure! I had a blast
reliving the experience with your pictures. Hopefully I'll start going
out to Ocean Beach and have some nice photos to send you with a story.
you for the memories,
Thanks for the email. Glad you had fun learning how to surf with Max.
Please be careful at Ocean Beach. That's a heavy break with some heavy
locals. Now that I think about it, please don't tell any of the locals
that I had anything to do with you paddling out there. I've got enough
problems. In fact, you better make sure it's a smallish day before you
paddle out. Not to mention the men in the Gray Suits patrolling the
line-up. So why did you want to learn how to surf again?
Have fun AJ -Keep surfing!
Yo R, sorry to hear the 25 weeks finally ended, what a run. Football
is almost here!!
My brother, the run may be over, but the 'Bigums'
are coming this weekend. HURRICANE BILL!
Not bad -26 out of 27 weeks. Oh yeah baby...that's what Uncle Ralphie
be talking about.
How's your teams looking this year? How about Wally with that freaking
"I can't quit loser" Brett Farvararavararava or whatever the
hell his name is, playing for the Vikings? Isn't that a kick in the
teeth, to the Packers fans?
That's very hurtful.
and I have Box seats for the PATS opener against the Bills with TO.
Should be fun.
I don't care so much about the Pats ever since we went 18-1...in 2007.
That bone is still caught in my throat. And I can't dislodge it.
I'll take that devastating loss to my grave...Damn!!!!!
Hope you guys get more surf.
I know it's crazy times in our little surf town, but wanted to give
you a quick update. Attached is the list of participants for WW. We
even found you a Marine. It looks like not only do we have more vets,
but the injuries are more severe.
I'm excited though; the bigger than challenge the bigger the reward
for these folks.
This summer must be overwhelming for you. Hopefully you hear this all
the time -Thanks for all you do to bring the surf community together,
and I sleep better knowing you are working on WW.
Enough of the warm-fuzzy stuff. I'll see you Saturday.
Thanks for the kind words. It's been a busy summer for sure. But we
will make the Wounded Warriors HIT THE BEACH II bigger than last year.
It's the least we can do for these brave American Heroes. If they want
to surf, we will make it happen. Thank you for all that you do as well.
August 17, 2009
Here's my idea for the drop in situation.
Broadly speaking there are 'experienced surfers' who drop in (for a
variety of reasons) and 'beginners' who really don't know what they
are doing a lot of the time!
The 'experienced' probably drop in more when it gets busy and other
people (beginners) do it first. So I think that helping the beginners
understand the code is the place to start.
My suggestion is to design a really simple diagram showing a couple
of the most common drop in situations and who has right of way on the
wave. (green board / red board). There are several out there on the
web but you have to go and look for them. So....
- This could be made into a sticker that is slapped onto every rental
board - right where the surfer looks down at the board when they are
lying on it.
- The same diagram could be put on a postcard (with more information
on the back) that is given to everyone who rents a board - their receipt
could be stapled to it. It could be backed (and paid for) by the NH
surfshops who rent boards.
Once you've got a sticker it can end up everywhere - especially with
a slogan; e.g. Know the Code - Surf NH
I know you're in graphic design so I'll leave that good stuff to you!
What do you think?
I like the concept. In fact, I had tried years ago (unsuccessfully)
to do just that. Handouts in ALL the shops. Then I thought about waterproof
handbooks that kooks could pull out of their wetsuits to find out why
all the surfers are yelling at them. Then I thought...what the hell.
I'll just invent a water proof taser gun and shock the shit out of them.
I'm still waiting on the patent.
Thanks for the respectful ideas.
August 17, 2009
May make the Molly Paddle a bit tough. If Bill stays on this path, it
will be one hell of a weekend.
The paddle happens with Hurricane Bill or No Hurricane Bill.
We've got the perfect spot for it. Just be there.
reading, but working thru this flat spell...But hey, summertime is
Love this HOT stretch and hopefully, "Ol Billy" will change
the landscape a
bit over the next week or so.
25 weeks of surf.....Ain't buying it..
I'd say not a day over 23 weeks.
Remember, a beach full of "kooks" on 10' Bics doesn't mean
that there are
waves...... Plus, "Rasta" only body surfed... Enough said.
it was a great run there.
your summer is going well.
25 weeks is my call. I'm talking waist high or better. I saw waist high
waves on real surfers. Not just kooks on Bics. And Rasta body surfing
in Saturday had nothing to do with waist high waves on Wednesday my
brother. I'm talking weekly swells. Not daily. 25 weeks. Put it in the
Keep surfing and reading!
Howzit? Guess who showed on our door step on Saturday the 15th. Tom
Woods! There was no surf here so Janet and I treated Tom to Laguna's
famous Festival of Arts. We also took him to the Art-A-Fair and the
Sawdust Festival in Laguna Canyon so he saw everything.
Sawdust festival? What the...? I'm glad you guys got reconnected after
so many years. Surfing and Vietnam. I'm so happy that we all met at
the Vietnam Veterans Memorial Paddle. You guys are like brothers to
Keep surfing and dancing in the sawdust!
Liz And I are going to see a great outdoor show tonight...Willie Nelson,
Bob Dylan, and John Melloncamp
gotta love california
Oldest, older, and damn near old. On the Anniversary of Woodstock.
Watch out for ther brown viagra.
Keep surfing and dancing to the stars!
August 9, 2009
Hey man KILLER old skate and surf footage
I can really appreciate that!!!!!!!!!!!!!
People think that the Dogtown Boys in Cali were the only skaters. We
were just as radical (in adventure not talent). We emptied pools, and
skated wherever we could. Always looking for the manmade asphalt wave.
I got scars on my elbows and my knees. We pioneered the surf breaks
and the urban skate spots back in the early to mid-70's.
Keep surfing and skating!
Really enjoyed Ralph's Pic this week and many thanks for supporting
NH Surfrider in the blog.
Stoked to get a pic on there too - in my camo rash guard! Next time
I'll bring the right size board and catch a few more waves. (Dale is
fixing up the dings in my longboard so I'll be all set for the small
stuff again by the weekend).
I don't know if the camo rash guard would be useful for you at the wounded
warrior event? If you're organising and need to stand out from the crowd?
Thanks for the kind words. I am looking for a total Camo rash guard,
color of "Kelp". That's the ultimate camo. I want a kelp camo
a Kelp camo board. Glad to have helped the SURFRIDER cause.
Keep surfing and having fun!
August 5, 2009
know you've been counting the weeks with at least wave high waves ...I
was at The Wall for a few hours earlier today (from about 10-2) and,
although I don't have a lot of experience judging wave size, there appeared
to be a waist high wave every now and then.
You may have seen a waist high wave. Imagination is more important knowledge.
I saw waist high waves on some of the Groms who were 3-4' tall. But
for surfers like me...it was maybe thigh high. In some places on the
planet these waves would be considered flat. In other places it would
be a great day. Like the Great Lakes. It's all a matter of personal
taste. My criteria was a generic waist high wave. It sounds like you
saw a waist high wave. I saw one the day after. But they were few and
far between. Still, try telling those groms there was no swell.
Keep surfing and having fun, no matter how big it is.
2nd , 2009
I know you probably have a lot of pictures going up this week but heres
just a couple more. Hoku and Kassia Meador at the Dear and Yonder movie
premiere. AND and a picture of my board... IN TWO PIECES. Yes, I broke
it! I was out surfing rock piles about 4-5ft hawaiian :( Sad story,
but it did have a good life, both in New Hampshire AND Hawaii!
Hope the 23 weeks of surf continues!
- Julia Hawaii
You broke your board in 4-5' Hawaiian? So that's 8-10' for the rest
of the world huh? Why would you ride a Longboard in Surf that big at
Rockpiles. Didn't your daddy teach you about board choices on the North
Shore. Wait...the North Shore broke 4-5' in the Summer? Say what? Or
is this an old photo?
The Surf has continued...sort of. It's waist high on someone out there.
Rest In Peace Longboard.