You won't hear me complaining about this Summer. No sir ree Bobby.
No sir. Unless of course, we don't get a single Hurricane or decent
Tropical Storm. But we are just now getting into that season, so
I am not concerned. I'm talking about the Summer thus far. June
and July. I have to say, that I have been having fun all Summer.
And quite frankly, if you can't have fun in small thigh to waist high
surf and 70 degree water temps...well you are incapable of having
any kind of New England Summer Surf Fun. Might I suggest you move
away from here.
Or better yet, take up Golf.
I have friends who live in Central California who never ( I repeat
NEVER) get out of their 4/3 wetsuits. Granted they get more consistent
surf than us, but to never get of of their suits? I'm sorry. Part of the
charm of New England is clearly the different seasons we all experience.
And one of the high points of our seasons is the warm spells we get in
the North Atlantic. And to have surf coincide with those warm spells.
Well dammit people. That's the frosting on the cake. That's the cats meow.
That's the freaking shizzle!
I was paddling around last week like I was back in Hawaii or some
other tropical destination. Looking at my own flesh turning brown from
the sun, and seeing the clarity of the water I was in...well, it looked
and felt tropical. I trunked it four days in a row! Hello? Sure there
were people in full westuits out there and I even saw a couple of the
"K" dudes and girls in booties, but to those of us who live,
eat and breathe this stuff, we were in heaven. And I don't mean living
here on the seacoast. I'm talking about any of you who are within an hour's
drive from the ocean.
If you missed the beach this weekend, or this past week, you blew it.
Unless you had work or other pressing commitments, the beaches this past
week were some of the best dam beach weather of all time. Now, I have
friends who will read this and think that I have lost my mind. They can
only see the size of the surf to call it beach worthy, and or, summer
I see it for what it is. Summer. And I'm talking the whole shabang.
The tourists, the kids, the noise, the traffic, the sounds and smells
of it all. But mostly, the cloudless blue skies, the warm water, and the
fun surf. I know what fun surf is dammit. Anything that can push me along
and allow me several turns and a few speed lines is fun surf.
I know we have not experience our first BIG Hurri swell of the
season, nor have we had any significant TS or TD activity
just yet. Although, last week's Chantelle was fun. It was. I know
it was not some pulsating, overhead, grinding, spitting tube session,
but, it was a 3 day waist high summer fun run. Hey, I had fun.
I'm not dead yet.
I know how to enjoy my New England Summers.
Most of you are aware of my little protégé Mackey V.
Lord knows, I write enough and post enough about our little surf adventures
together. But I wonder how many of you are aware of my other children?
I have two other daughters, both of which, love the ocean and the surf.
This past week, my surf jaded son passed on a couple of really fun days
at the Wall. My daughter Gabby joined me instead and those sessions
ended up being some of the most fun I've had in the water all year. In
fact, I will go as far and say it was some of the most fun I've had in
surfing in general.
Gabby and I shared some of the Summer's best sessions so far. It
was warm, sunny and the surf was just so much fun, that we could hardly
contain ourselves. She and I just lit into those waves like a couple Groms
jacked up on Red Bull. It was so neat to see Gabby enjoy
herself without the pressure of bigger surf and cold water. To actually
have fun without the aggro crowds and other distractions that go hand
in hand with REAL Surf was such a treat. We shared some of the Summer's
most memorable sessions. Sometimes, we lose track of what this lifestyle
is supposed to be all about. Surfing with my daughter this past week brought
it all back to me. I really enjoyed sharing waves with her, and I look
forward to doing more of the same as the summer progresses.
You Go Gabby!
A big shout out to all the artists who submitted their work to last week's
SURF ART COLUMN. I've received a lot of positive feedback from
readers out there who really dig the Surf Art Scene. If you have any inquiries
on some of the artists and or their work email me and I will get the info
off to them. And to those artists who missed the deadline and or just
didn't get it together in time, start thinking about next year's column
creating those wonderful pieces of surf art for next year's column.
would you guys think about a Surf Art column more than once a year?
Talk to me people. Let me know what you're thinking. I know there's
a whole bunch of artists out there who do some really creative work.
And the fact that your work ties in with the surfing lifestyle, well,
all the better. I can think of several talented artists who live nearby
who didn't submit their work. You know who you are. I say share that
talent with the rest of the world. Who knows, there may be someone out
there who just loves your work and will pay you for it.
Imagine that. Getting paid to create SURF ART.
I did something this past week that I never thought I'd do. I tried
SUPB-ing. It's true. Dave Cropper offered me his craft
midweek as we were all sharing some fun little glassy waves. Anyone
who knows Dave, knows that he's too nice of a guy to say no to.
Reluctantly, I accepted his invitation and to my surprise, I was actually
getting into it. Did I catch and ride a wave? No. Did I find it difficult?
Yes and no. Once I I got a handle on it (pun intended), I did manage
to move myself around. Was it fun? Yes. It was fun. What I found most
amazing was the ability to see so much further out than anyone else
in the line-up. That and the fact that I felt like I was on some aquatic
scientific mission studying the bottom of the ocean floor and the habitat
that lives there.
I went SUPB-ing and I had fun. And I will do it again.
I guess we sportsfans are sort of waiting for Barry Bonds to
hit his next Home Run to break Hank Aaron's 755 record. He tied
Hank's record over the weekend. I guess like most of you, I have
mixed emotions about all of this. By now, most of you know that Barry
Bonds will forever be associated with Steroids. There's no
denying that he's used them. Although, he has personally denied it,
it's painfully obvious that he's been Roided Up during
his run to take the record. Roids have been a sports controversy for
many years now and it looks like it will continue. I think he should
have the record with a asterisk next to his name. *Due in part
to his use of Steroids.
I see A-Rod has also accomplished a new record as well. The youngest
player to ever reach the 500 HR mark. But because he's a Yankee
it really does not count. Seriously,
A-Rod did it the right way. So he deserves a tip of the cap.
Like a lot of you this week, I was horrified at the bridge collapse
in Minneapolis. Can you imagine what that must of been like?
Look we've all driven over bridges. Some of you drive over one everyday.
Some of you drive over one to get to the surf. That was absolutely a
motorists nightmare. I mean Good Lord, are you kidding me? I suppose
it could of been worse. It could of happened in the Winter. That would
of been way worse. Still, just when you think you've seen it all, something
like this happens and you step back to thank the Lord for everything
you have, and all you can do is say a prayer for those unfortunate souls.
Speaking of souls. I want to express our (the Cinnamon Rainbows family)
most sincere condolences to the family of local surfers Gary and
Billy Ritchie over the recent loss of their grandfather. I met him
at Mark's wake and he was a vibrant man who almost lived to be
100. That's quite a life. I enjoyed speaking with him that day
and honestly thought he would make it to be 100 years old. The
Lord had other plans for him though. On behalf of the entire surf community
we offer our prayers and sympathy for their loss.
On a lighter note, congrats to Eric (Red longboarder) and his
wife who are expectant parents of a baby girl due in November.
In fact, to all you dads with little surfer girls, I hope you all get
to experience what I got to experience with my little surfer girl this
Congrats to Leah Grondin for taking the crown at the annual Miss
Hampton Beach Pageant.
Oh and before I forget, my band BIG HANDSOME DADDY will be playing
at 931 OCEAN in Hampton on Monday, August 13,
2007. From 7-9PM. Big Handsome Daddy (BHD)
is a blues/rock based band that is heavily influenced by Stevie Ray
Vaughan and Jimi Hendrix. If you dig the guitar driven blues
sound of that genre, then check BHD out a week from Monday.
PADDLE FOR DANNY Sunday Aug 12, 2007 at the WALL
The Continuing Fund for the Late Surfer Danny Miller's young son
Landon can be made to The Landon Miller Fund through
ANY Citizen Bank. Or send your donation to:
Landon Miller Foundation
83 South Road
North Hampton, NH 03862
below to see Danny Tribute or see Danny Surfing
Tribute to Danny.
North By Northeast
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace. Surf For Fun.