Got good surf pics?
Yes I said Florida. Trust me, it's a hell of lot more tropical in FLA than this frozen tundra we're all stumbling around in. The snow banks in my driveway are still frozen solid. Those things won't be melting until May. I don't know why it's getting to me. I mean, it's not like I travel every year. I guess it's all the photos landing in my email incoming box, and the beautiful tropical pics in all the mags. Hawaii this Hawaii that. It's painful to look at.
it and want it.
Dam...I miss that.
And when you hit the water for the first time...oh man. Feeling that warm water, on your arms, as you paddle out. It does not get any better than that...but then again, yes it does...and that's when you catch that first wave. And feel the glide and looseness, of not wearing a 50mil wetsuit, with a hood, boots and gloves. So loose, you feel like Corey Lopez or some other tropical Kelly Slater like wildman. Your imagination taking over.
Dam I miss that. I really do.
about your buddies at home, freezing their asses off. Calling them on
your cell, and asking them how the weather is back home. I miss that.
The hot sun beating down on you, causing you to coat that white butt
of yours with #100 sunscreen. And accepting the inevitable sunburn,
because you don't care. You are in the tropics, and that's all that
really matters. Thinking about the next day, and how good it's going
to be. Catching a glimpse of the news and weather on TV and seeing that
New England is getting blasted again, with yet another winter
Then you start scheming in your mind. "How can I move here permanently? How can I pull this off? Spend the rest of my life in the tropics. How can I do this?" Then reality sets in, and before you know it, you have to go home again. But that's OK. You got your fill. You got that taste, and, it should sustain you for the rest of the cold winter back home. And then, you think ahead, to next year, when you do it all over again. The tropics. I miss it.
hardcore winter surfers in New England, there's nothing better,
than getting away for a short trip, to some tropical destination. Anywhere
but cold. Even Florida. Now I am not knocking Florida.
Hardly. My buddy Phil just spent a couple of years there, and
he scored waves all the time. He's since moved to Southern Cal,
where he's scoring more waves(the bastard), but for a while there, he
was getting into some fun surf all Winter long. And it sure looked tropical
I miss it this year. Whether it's some Caribbean Island, or Centro America, or the Hawaiian Islands. I miss it. I remember thinking that I will ALWAYS get away each winter NO MATTER what. And that was the case for many years. I did. When I was single it was way easier. Then we got married and had a family and that thing called "responsibility" came into play and before you knew it. It was every other year, and then we waited for the kids to get older. And we did travel each winter.
But it became most exspensive. So the trips became fewer and farther between. The next thing you know...we're spending the whole winter at home. Sure, we put on the brave face, and say it does not matter. But we all know it does. Because once you get a taste of the tropics. You need more. Like I said, we all need it. We need it for so many different reasons. One of which, is to make sense of why we live here in the dead of winter. When you step out of the box and look back into it. You can see the beauty of these New England winters. You can justify why you live here. You can see it all, like in some tropical crystal ball.
But having said that. There is a limit to what kind of Tropical level I can take. First of all, the images we see in the magazines of places like the North Shore of Oahu. I stare at some of those photos, and think to myself. "No way I could paddle for a wave that big, and drop into something that steep, and pull into a barrel that hollow!" Like a lot of you, I try to imagine what it would be like. That one fleeting moment, when that lip comes over, and encases you in a tropical...nightmare.
Don't get me wrong here kids.
was a time, when I actually paddled out in surf that I had no business
being in. I can remember days with Kevin, Zappy and Lenny
on the North Shore back in the early 80's. Crazy big.
8-12' Hawaiian Scale surf. I was freaking. Lenny lived
there and was used to the bigger surf. Not me. Kevin went to
school there and he too was acclimated to big Hawaiian surf.
And Zappy just charged it. Not me. I was never a Big Wave surfer.
I have been out in big waves, but I am NOT a big wave surfer.
Then I would feel safe again, knowing that I am home.
But dammit people, I miss the tropics. And I guess it's part of our dilemma of living and surfing here year round. If you can't get away, you live your tropical trips through the magazines, and photos from our friends and neighbors. And you use your imagination. Especially, the next time we get surf and you paddle out in this cold ass Atlantic ocean.
you are someplace warm and tropical. And when that first wave, hits
you in the face, like a cold, wet slab of ice, and you are still thinking
about the tropics...?
help too. I miss the tropics.
Well I did it. Did what you ask? I bought a new Digital camera. The NIKON D-90 with a 18-200mm lens. I had to. I had been suffering as of late, with lens and camera envy. Granted, I am primarily a videographer. That's my forte. The still shooting is better left to those who shoot stills all the time. But, as many of you readers know and see each week, I still shoot my share of stills. Albeit with an inferior camera. I had been using my trusty point and shoot G-5 Canon. And while I have no honest complaints (how could I? It's a dam point and shoot!) I felt as though I needed a somewhat better rig. I have it with the D-90.
I was hoping for a new clean swell this week to start shooting. Looking at the WetSands and Magic Seaweed sites it looked like we would get surf on Thursday. There was surf out all right. It was just heading in the opposite direction. I bet France was good though. I still went down the beach this week to shoot something. I don't have the patience of someone like Lenny, who's looking down, more than out in the surf, when he's shooting. And guys like Nevins who stalks around like a seasoned sniper, aiming only when the moment is right, before he squeezes off a shot. Or the others like Carden, O'Connell, Wade, Doherty and the others...there was no surf. So I could not compare shots with these guys. I so badly want to though.
taste it. I want to take a decent still shot.
Digital has come of age.
I was one of the last holdouts back in the day when I shot ONLY Movie film. I refused to shoot on the naked VHS tape when those old clunkers first came out. Dam I hated that look. Then they (the Viddy guys), slowly but surely, got their act together. The first 8mm cameras were just OK. Then they went into a higher res 8mm. Finally, the DV boon was born, and the 3ccc cameras came out and when I saw Joe Carter's footage I was convinced. It was time to switch. So I bought my CANON GL-1 3cc video camera.
not need the same coaxing this time around.
of sad news. The Australian brush fires last week that took 180
lives now has a person in custody. That's one of those stories, that
leave us all completely bewildered. How can a brush fire cause that
much damage and loss of life? It does not seem possible. Yet it happened.
Makes you appreciate the role that Firefighters play in our country.
Just an awful scene in Australia. So sad. I'm sure the person
of interest, is in protective custody. Those Aussies must be
fit to be tied. Again, our thoughts and prayers go out to the families
and friends of those who lost their lives.
are the websites pertaining to the Children of Nicaragua that
was brought to all of our attention through Brian Nevin's recent
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my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
1979 The Empty Tropical Wave...30 years ago this month.
2009 From The TROPICS this week of February 8-14, 2009
Now Something From The PHANTOM this week of February 8-14, 2009
2009 PARTING SHOT- Rare Valentine photos of Abe Lincoln
and below) Abe Lincoln showing us all why he was considered to be the
BEST president of all time!
(Above) Happy 200th Birthday Mr President!