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June
28th, 2009 19
Weeks Of Surf.
I
woke up early Friday morning and drove down the street to check
the surf. I had a feeling it was still going to be there. I say "Still"
because the night before, it was still pushing pretty good. Thursday
was the best day of the Summer season so far. Head high and glassy in
the morning. Sunny breaks here and there. It was a major score if you
got any. The wind was blowing all week and it was a nasty week for anyone
on vacation. Yet, there was surf almost everyday. Not clean surf, but
plenty enough to get wet on and get pushed around.
Thursday
was kind of a surprise. I mean, seeing those glassy head high lines,
pouring onto the beach, with hardly anybody out, was cause for giddiness.
Mackey V and I were on it before the wind got on it, and the
clouds and fog moved in. It also got nice and glassy later in the day,
and the sun did pop out. So I shot most of the day, and was happy with
the results. Lots of people showing up, and getting their share throughout
the day. Most of them surfed 2 or 3 times. I bit the bullet and shot.
The dilemma of shooting, verses surfing, has dogged me since day one.
All you Surfer/Photographers know what I'm talking about.
Do
you shoot first and then surf? Or visa versa. Well, conventional surf
journalism wisdom says...always shoot first. And it's true. If you want
the best conditions on film. You need to shoot first, and then go surfing.
This is something I've had to deal with forever. And please don't for
a minute think, that I regret a single day of shooting, I do not. Well,
that's not entirely true. There have been times, when the surfers I'm
shooting, were not getting the better waves, or just not surfing up
to their potential. That's always frustrating.
Even
on my level. I'm not shooting pros. I'm shooting good, local surfers.
And back when I first started shooting, I was a better surfer than I
am now. So, there were times that I thought, I could of caught better
waves, and surfed them better, than the guys I was shooting. Not all
the time, but occasionally. So I would curse myself, or the subject
matter. And that dilemma of not surfing before shooting, would raise
it's ugly head. But those days are behind me now. I am not the surfer,
I used to be.
However,
I still love to surf.
Which brings me back to Friday morning. I purposely did not bring
any of my camera gear. My D-90 and GL-1 were back in my
office. I was there to surf. Plain and simple. But what I saw on Friday
morning kind of freaked me out. It was picture perfect. Head high
or better, glassy and hollow, and not a cloud in the sky. I called Mackey
and woke his ass up. And I called Ed O'Connell to see if he could
document this swell. All I got was his voicemail. So I thought, he was
out shooting somewhere. I knew that Carden would be in a coma,
and would be useless at this hour. John works at night. He's
nocturnal. He's like a freaking bat. Up all night and sleep all day.
And I knew that Nevins was in Florida, jumping out of
airplanes. Besides, after his recent Indo trip, I'm sure that
a head high, glassy, summer wave at home, would lack some of the intensity
of that insane Indo trip.
Speaking
of insane, Nevins is a bona fide adrenaline junky. He needs the
real stuff to get his engine running. Jumping out of planes on Friday,
was way more of a rush, than what we had here. So I was banking on Ed
shooting somewhere. Then I went surfing. On my shortboard. Now if you
re-call last week, I was bitching that my "Magic Board"
had lost it's magic, or that I had lost my own ability to ride a shortboard,
and was doomed, or rather regulated, to surf on my longboard. I was
somewhat depressed because, I still want to surf on my short board.
I mean, let's face it. There's no denying what you can do on a shortboard.
And on the other hand, there's no denying what you can do on a longboard.
But
I am no Mike Moran on a longboard. Hardly.
And
I also know that, my short boarding is marginal at best. But my stoke
level goes through the roof ,when I connect the dots. And on my very
first wave on Friday morning, I connected the dots. Here, let
me walk you through it kids. I paddled out at Ralph's Right's..(Yes
named after me) and moved down a bit to the next peak. A solid head
high wave popped in over the sandbar, and I swung my Merrick
around, and did a one stroke take-off. I dropped in behind the peak,
and faded into a semi casual bottom turn, and projected myself up and
into the open pocket. The wave opened up enough, to fit my tired old
ass into the perfect slot position, and the lip poured over me. I only
had to slightly duck under the lip to allow for the complete coverage.
This tube was one of those waves, where you could see clearl,y that
it was an easy makeable barrel. I came out, with a smile on my face
as wide as I've ever had.
But
alas my friends, I am not done.
I then pulled a big wide, roundhouse cutty, and sort of bounced off
the white water, and then did a pump or two, and found myself in a fast
racy section. So I did what any kid would do. I hit the lip for a semi
floater, lip launch. And much to my surprise, and to the others who
were watching, I made it. "Whoa" I thought to myself. "Did
I just really do that?" But hold on now...I'm still riding this
thing. Into the inside section I go. And what should I see up ahead?
Another wrapping hollow section. "Should I?" I asked myself.
"Why the hell not?" I thought...and I pulled into that sand
sucking, inside section, and proceeded to take the entire lip on my
head and back. I kept a wide enough stance, and took the brunt of that
thick lip square on my body. But again, much to my surprise, I actually
made it out! To say I was stoked, when I kicked out of that wave, would
be a gross understatement. I was all of that, and more. I was as, my
friend Jack is wont to say, "Super Stoked!"
But what followed, was a level of confidence, that I had not had for
months, on my short board.
The rest of the session was filled with, many late drops, cutties, and
the occasional hollow section. Did I boost any airs? Hell no. Did I
spin any 360's? No sir. Did I attempt any crazy flip kicks? No
and no. But what I did do, was rekindle that flame, that I thought (just
last week) was snuffed out for good. Dammit, I could surf again.
Don't
get me wrong here. There were times, when I was out there, watching
others get waves, and watching the mesmerizing, liquid mechanics, of
an empty barrel, go winding by me, that I wished I had my camera with
me. There were plenty of those moments. But, they were quickly erased
from my brain's hard drive, when I'd catch another set wave, and surf
like I was 20 years younger. And it went on for almost 4 hours.
Are you kidding me? The only fatigue I got, was getting a couple of
painful leg cramps. Other than that, I was in a rhythmic groov,e that
I had not felt, since last summer.
It
was almost like a freaking Disney movie. You know, some old guy
gets his mojo back, and reconnects with his inner youth. It happened
to me. So, I apologize for boring you all with this self indulgent surf
story dribble, but if it can happen to me. It can happen to you. Don't
give up. Surfing is the kind of sport, that you can do for the rest
of your life. Yes, you need to stay in shape, and yes you need to still
live the lifestyle. But it is possible. Like my nephew QWILL
sings in his song"There's nothing that's impossible".
I'm
almost afraid to look at the surf forecasts. But...is it possible, we
will have another week of potential rideable surf? Can I get a 20
WEEK Run? My brothers and sisters? Can we get an incredible 20
weeks? I'm thinking we can and will. Keep yer fingers crossed for
WEEK 20!
I've gotten quite a few queries on my RULES
& TIPS page. Lots of people wanting to know the correct
etiquette on our unwriiten code of Honor. And I think this is a good
thing. The more people want to learn the rights and wrongs the less
hassles we all get in. So brush up on the rules and if you have any
questions Drop me a line
in the DROPPING
IN section. I have thick skin. Trust me. I can handle
anything you have on your mind. I mentioned last week that I'm allowing
for anonymous users to vent if you want. I don't want to embarrass anyone.
So check it out. The beauty of the DROPPING
IN section is, I post it as it I get them.
So Drop in on me. Just don't do it in the water.
Now
for some of my weekly Global observances:
Well what a week. The week of Celebrity losses for sure. They say bad
things happen in threes. Well, in the Entertainment world that is alarmingly
true. First and formeost Ed McMahon passed away at the ripe old
age of 86. Ed McMahon was Johnny Carson's side
kick for almost 30 years. He was a class act or sure. Besides
being a pillar to Johnny Carson's wacky antics, he was also a
proud US Marine Corps Veteran who served in two wars. WWII
and Korea. Most people don't know that about McMahon. He
saw combat in Korea. He also helped Jerry Lewis in his
annual telethon.
Rest in Peace Ed and Semper Fi.
The second Hollywood loss was Farah Fawcett. Lots of you
men out there I'm sure had a thing for this Charlies Angel heart
throb. Farah was 62 and she passed away on Thursday.
Cancer. I was never a big fan of Farah, but I'm not denying her popularity.
She was popular with those who fell in love with that jiggling trio
of ridiculous detectives. My younger sister had a friend who was obsessed
with Farah and actually had that hair style for years. Farah
did eventually do some acting work, that gave her some credence as to
her profession, but she will be forever linked to that TV show. Rest
in Peace Farah.
OK,
so the real big news of the week, has to be Michael Jackson's
sudden passing at age 50. The King of Pop is dead. And
while the pundits, and the talking heads, are all trying to get the
scoop on the actual cause of death, there can be no denying what he
brought to the music world. Michael Jackson was an unbelievable
super talented creative genius. Singer, songwriter, dancer and performer.
I mean think about it. For a while there, especially during the THRILLER
era, MJ was the man. He single handily turned the music world
on it's ear with his groundbreaking videos and dance moves.
But
there also can be no denying his darker side. Or as some would say...
his lack of it. How he went from a good-lookingAfrican American
male, to that chiseled old white woman in 10 years is still a
mystery. I mean like a lot of you, whenever we'd see him transform
over the years, it became more and more bizarre. It was freaky to say
the least. Then the whole kid thing, and the Neverland Park,
and Bubbles the freaking chimp, and finally the trying to buy
the Elephant Man's bones...I mean Michael...what the hell???
But
damn his music was good. In spite all of his wackiness.
I have an active imagination. Surely you all know that. On Thursday
night my wife and I were returning to NH from Boston,
after seeing my nephew QWILL at The House Of Blues ,when
I wondered out loud, about this potential scenario. The Funeral Director,
who will be handling the services for MJ speaking to the family
members. I said to my wife can you picture that scene? "Ahhh,
so which version of Michael do you want?" We thought his
controlling father would demand to get his original son back. While
the others shrugged their shoulders. I mean, as sick as this may sound,
they need to come up with one of his many looks.
Like
I said in the previous paragraph, my imagination is very active. So
I'm throwing out a challenge to ALL you long boarders out there. Are
you ready for this? I want to see with some kind of visual evidence,
the First Longboarder who successfully does the Moonwalk on a Longboard.
Huh? Come on my brothers and sisters! Think about it. Start practicing
cause I'm gonna try it too. The First SURFER to do The Moonwalk on
a Longboard. I'll get it on the news and on all the surfsites. Surely
one of you can do it! Moonwalk on a Longboard. It's never been done
before. Walk up to the nose, and Moonwalk back to the tail or midsection.
Be the first Surfer to do The Moonwalk on a Longboard.
The
WOUNDED WARRIORS are coming back to Hampton Friday August 28th, 2009
at North Beach for the 2nd Annual HIT THE BEACH! Surf event. Stay tuned.
Big Handsome Daddy is playing at RUDI'S in Portsmouth
on Thursday, July 9th.
Show starts at 8PM (early show and nite). *See
ad on right.
We are STILL calling on all able bodies and souls to pray for Lil
Miss Molly's recovery.
Please send your prayers and positive vibes to the Rowlee family.
Thank you.
Don't forget All the shops are STILL collecting cards, gifts, and other
provisions for the Rowlee family. PIONEERS , CINNAMON RAINBOWS,
BRICKHOUSE, ZAPSTIX and many more shops are drop off points of interest
for Miss Molly. Skip Brunette has opened a Little Miss Molly
account at the SEACOAST CREDIT UNION on 887 Lafayette Rd, Hampton
NH. (see poster below for info). There are several more fund raisers
in the making as well. There's still plenty of things going on for Lil
Miss Molly and you can find out most of it on the Ralph's
Community Page.
Little Miss Molly Fund Auction
Check out the Classified
and the DROPPING
IN ON RALPH Pages.
Check out the new RULES
& TIPS page.
Check out. Cinnamon
Rainbows SurfLine.
Happy Birthday to Cory Fatello June
30th! (We Love you!)
Happy
Birthday to Dave Cropper June 30th!
Happy
Birthday to Kyle Linseman June 30th!
Happy
Birthday to Mike Tyson June 30th!
Happy (belated) Birthday to Kevin Grondin June 23rd!
HAPPY BIRTHDAY
AMERICA JULY 4TH!
Get well soon to Josh Bellman who broke his leg
last week in a fall. The original JB will be back before you know it.
Finally Rest In Peace Seth Coellner 36, of Kensington
who drowned last week in a tragic boating accident in Newburyport. Seth
was a local who loved the ocean, skateboarding, snowboarding and fishing.
He was married with two young daughters.
Please
Support ALL The photographers who contribute to
Ralph's Pic Of The Week every week for the last 6 years.
Remember
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace. Surf For Fun.
Ralph
Yesterday-
1975 Greg Smith Hampton, NH.
(Below) Greg Smith was or rather is, one of the bravest men
I know. There was nothing he wouldn't do or try. I mean this guy
had big brass balls. No question about it. He has since moved to
Hawaii and has a beautiful wife and child. Greg could surf as good
as anyone back in the day. And I suspect he's still surfing big
waves in the Islands today. Greg if you're reading this, we all
send our love and respect to you and your young family. Aloha.
Video Frame Grab by Ed O'Connell
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Today
2009- Week-19 of continuous surf. Friday June 26th.
(Above) Dougie "Fresh" Wright. Local
ripper back from his first winter in Hawaii where he is attending
college. Don't know how much school work he gets done living on Oahu...but
that's none of my business. We're all glad to see him back for the summer.
And his surfing...? Well take a look for yourself. Friday June 26,
2009. To see more click on Photo. Photo by RALPH
Click
on the image above to see more.
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(Above) Empty Wave. Yes there were plenty
of empty waves. Friday June 26th, 2009.
To see more click on Photo. Photo by RALPH
Click
on the image above to see more.
(Above) Adam Coates was upside down all
afternoon out there. Friday June 26, 2009.
To see more click on Photo. Photo by RALPH
Click
on the image above to see more.
Today
2009- Week-19 Thursday Afternoon June 25th.
(Above) Sashi carves a deep one on Thursday
June 25, 2009.
To see more click on Photo. Photo by RALPH
Click
on the image above to see more.
(Above) Dougie Fresh boosts one
on Thursday June 25, 2009.
To see more click on Photo. Photo by RALPH
Click
on the image above to see more.
(Above) Adam Coates racing the lip line
on Thursday June 25, 2009.
To see more click on Photo. Photo by RALPH
Click
on the image above to see more.
Today
2009- Week-19 Thursday Morning June 25th.
(Above) Mackey V must be pinching himself.
This was Thursday Morning. June 25th, 2009.
To see more Click on pic. Photo by
RALPH
Click
on the image above to see more.
(Above) Perry Reynolds smooth as silk
cutback on Thursday Morning. June 25th, 2009.
To see more Click on pic. Photo by
RALPH
Click
on the image above to see more.
(Above) Jon Gozzo hits the brakes on
Thursday Morning. June 25th, 2009.
To see more Click on pic. Photo by
RALPH
Click
on the image above to see more.
(Above) Kevin Grondin hits the lip on
Thursday afternoon. June 25th, 2009.
To see more Click on pic. Photo by
John Carden
Click
on the image above to see more.
(Above) Unknown Nutcase cruising thru
Summer on Thursday afternoon. June 25th, 2009.
To see more Click on pic. Photo by
John Carden
Click
on the image above to see more.
(Above) Patrick Millerick braving the
cold to impress his friends and the girls. Well done Patrick
well done. Thursday afternoon. June 25th, 2009.
To see more Click on pic. Photo by
Aaron Rohde
Click
on the image above to see more.
(Above) Sashi Lyford flying into the inside
racetrack. Thursday afternoon. June 25th, 2009.
To see more Click on pic. Photo by
Aaron Rohde
Click
on the image above to see more.
Today
2009- Thursday Night June 25th, 2009
(Above) The House Of Blues across from
Fenway Park is where QWILL performed on Thursday
Night June 25th, 2009. To see more click on Photo. Photo
by RALPH
Click
on the image above to see more. |
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(Above) QWILL at The House Of Blues Boston,
MA. Thursday Night June 25th, 2009.
To see more click on Photo. Photo by RALPH
Click
on the image above to see more.
RALPH'S
VIDEO CLIP OF THE WEEK BELOW.

RALPH'S
VIDEO CLIP OF THE WEEK *SHOT Last March 2009
CLICK ON THE PHOTO IMAGE BELOW FOR
SHORT WINDOWS MEDIA FILE VIDEO CLIP.
(Above) Click on this
image of Brian Nevins
For the FUEL TV clip taken at the WALL last March
2009. Photo by RALPH
Today
2009- Wednesday June 23rd, 2009
(Above) This was the 19th Week of surf. Wednesday June 23rd,
2009 Click on Photo to see more. Photo by RALPH
Click
on the image above to see more.
(Above) This guy was killing it out there.
Who Da Guy? Wednesday June 23rd, 2009 Click on Photo to see more.
Photo by RALPH
Click
on the image above to see more.
(Above) Lars Jacobsen was bouncing all over
the place. This 19th Week of surf. Wednesday June 23rd, 2009 Click
on Photo to see more. Photo by RALPH
Click
on the image above to see more.
Today
2009- Thursday June 25th, 2009 Blatant
DROP-IN
(Above) The Crime captured on film. Kevin
Grondin deals with the BLATANT Drop In Thursday June 25th, 2009. To
see more and other Drop-Ins click on image.
Click on image. Photo by John Carden
Click
on the image above to see more.
(Above) Don't tell me this is not absolutely
mindboggling beautiful and heart stopping scary. Because it is both.
Nevins lives for this stuff. June 25th, 2009. To see more-
click on image. Photo by Brian Nevins
Click
on the image above to see more.
(Above) Jared's Reflections.. June
25th, 2009. Photo by Lenny Nichols
(Above) Jon Gozzo took this photo. Rye
, NH sign of the Times.June 25th, 2009.
To see more- click on image. Photo by Jon Gozzo
Today
2009 PARTING SHOT- "Oh oh this can't be good. " Thursday June
25th, 2009
(Above) This will not have a happy ending. Look
how the wave contours to the surfer's weight and positioning. Talk about
lip service. Thursday June 25, 2009 . Photo by Aaron Rohde
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See QWILL at the HOUSE OF BLUES in Boston on Thursday June 25th,
2009
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WOUNDED WARRIORS are COMING AUGUST 28, 2009 to 10th Street North
Beach, Hampton, NH.
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